I disconnected the loader hydraulics and temporarily connected the front hitch lift cylinders and extended and retracted them to confirm their functionality. Update on the Front 3 Point Hitch installation: I very easily installed the front rockshaft and hydraulic cylinders and connected all the hydraulic lines that were capped and stowed. The big wingnut and lynch pin will always loosen up no matter how tight you put them, ask me I bent the crap out of the big bolt once because the lynch pin fell out. This will make sure that the plow will stay put on the A frame hitch. Now, very important step, push the pin forward so that the head of the pin is against the hitch plate then tighten the nut up snug but not tight enough to sheer the pin, then lock the lock nut down against the hex nut. pull the bolt up making sure the pin catches the notch in the hitch, hand tighten the nut to snug it. When you put the retaining pin in, clip the bailing wire closed then rotate the pin so that the big end is facing forward. OK, back to #'s 2 and 3: With your new hardware, mount up the blade. I'll give you some tips for the front a frame hitch and 366 blade after using one for a few years on my 3320.ġ) Take the big wingnut and lynch pin that hold the big bolt on and throw them away, they are useless.Ģ) Take the big bolt, go to the local hardware store and get a hex and lock nut to fit it, they are metric thread.Ĥ) When you store the blade, do so where it will not get water on it as the cylinders tend to pickup water and go bad.ĥ) The skid shoes are set to the wrong angle as it comes from Deere, Kenny has a post on relocating them for proper function.
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